It's posted elsewhere on this forum, and worked out real well for me. This should reset the pump. If it is necessary to separate the fuel pump and sending unit,disconnect the electrical connectors at the pump,noting their postions. Camshaft position sensor failed test, replaced distributor. This is the hard part, so you don't want the car jacked up at this point while you're pulling on the tire iron! The pump is an electrical device that feeds fuel from the tank, through the fuel lines, to the engine. All other electrical is working.
The other thing is to download your Factory manual and follow through the trouble shooting steps, it all assumes you have their computerized stuff but it does have sections on testing without. Maybe the mix is wrong when the car is cold? And voila, there is the windshield washer reservoir and 2 pumps, one front and one rear. Per the manual this sensor is used to determine the engine speed. It can be use to replace and inspect the fuel gauge sensor. On the injected models is is a canister in the engine compartment. The fuel pressure was checked while the car was running. Answer for carbureted models it is either mechanical and on the cylinder head, or elctric and attached to the rear framerail by the fuel tank.
I have a 2000 Maxima and the fuel pump is inside the fuel filter canister which is located inside the fuel tank itself beneath the rear seat. But a quick check is to get the truck running at night and up to operating temp and take a look underneath, they tend to glow a bit when they are completely clogged. Thanks, will that work on a 98 though? The problem started happening again a few weeks later. Does anyone else have any ideas? I am wondering if your evap canister could cause the same problem if it totally disintegrated, but once again you should get a code. One runs your power steering pump, this one should be closest to the front of the vehicle. Now I have all speeds again. As well, when it does get going, the car idles fairly well but sometimes the car shakes a little and the idle goes a bit off.
Has anybody else had trouble removing this pump assembly? Repeat this several times to prime the fuel lines. If its dirty,clean it with a suitable solvent and blow it out with compressed air. It has a strong cranking motion but still won't start. You'll need to know which one yo … u need, in order to get the correct one from the store. Seems more like the crank shaft sensor would be the problem.
You must be listening under back of vehicle near fuel tank, so you'll need some one to turn on ignition while you listen. There is also no check engine light and no codes. Try it several times ,with a short break in between trys , but it should make abuzzing sound every time. So I started the truck up this morning by having the gas pedal to the floor. I can pull the assembly part way out from the top so that I can see into the tank, but it looks like the cylindrical pump motor at the bottom is hung up on something at the bottom of the tank. But the second time i unbolted the whole bed and d … id it from the top. Now place the spare on the lugbolts use your foot to help align it.
When its started though, the car seems a bit more responsive than before. You can replace the fuel pump through this access port. The next one is your alternator belt, which may also run your water pump. Just pop the cover and unscrew the gas cap, this will release any preasure built up inside the tank. The truck started right up to 1000 rpm when I let go and stayed there till it warmed up. Do a visual of your engine compartment, make sure you don't have any damaged wires, either from wear or rodent damage,rats and mice will crawl in there and chew stuff, trust me I know.
I ruined mine by trying to do that, but of course I think the thing was bad to start with and might have been on its last legs. When changing, first pull the fuel pump fuse then run the engine until it dies. So, you've got a full tank of gas. You can test the phyiscal function of the fuel pump by attaching a fuel pressure gauge to the front fuel line under the hood. Raise it up by turning the scissor jack. Doesn't seem to be getting a spark. I will definitely look into it though.
Some injector wires were mouse chewed but were repaired. You must be listening under back of vehicle near fuel tank, so you'll need some one to turn on ignition while you listen. That should give you enough slack in the belt to get it off. If resistance is not within specifications typically 3 to 5 ohms for a low-resistance injector, or 12 to 17 ohms for a high-resistance injector , the injector needs to be replaced. The compression fitting may be rusted solid and you can't use a torch on it. This relieves fuel pressure from the line so you don't get squirted in the eye with gasoline when you remove the hose clamps. Fuel present at injector manifold.
Open the compartment and press the red button. Disconnect the fuel line from the pump fuel filter located under hood, passanger side on firewall small cylinder with two hoses coming in and out. I will also try checking the timing. Release the handles and try to pull the seat, to make sure it locked firmly. It will help to narrow down the problem.