It looks judging from my own car that a bracket can be fashioned that sits behind the grill, using the front bumper Torx bolts as attachment points i. My idea was to put some sort of bolt or extender from the bumper reinforcement and have its end either come through or be acessible behind the front rub strip. I just bought a second hand one on here. As far as I can see splitting it is not really an option with the xenons. To be honest that's slighly unfair, I didn't have trouble, but it was a bit fiddly. He was correct after 2.
I will also be doing mountain driving in Northen Montana and on up to Jasper ca. Make sure that your vehicle is safely jacked up with proper jack stands. Thanks in advance Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk Remove your centre grill and unclip the bonnet pull, take out all the torx bolts that are under this Remove two side lower grills and take out the two m8 nylocs and the external air temp sensor. While the bumper can easily be lifted by one person, it is a good idea to have someone hold the bumper while you are undoing the bolts. The theft proofing benefits would be nice too, as one would have to undo the hood or smash out the grille to get to the bracket bolt.
Just a quick update to say thanks to everyone for the replies and information regarding removing the front bumper. In your situation, you'd use the behind-the-grill structure to support the lamp via the rear-projecting main mounting bolt , and then you'd run a short vertical steady-bracket straight down from the bottom of the lamp i. Or will you be anchoring the end directly onto the bumper cap itself? The bumper still slides of fine, you just have to maneuver it around the grill. Happen to know the size of the small nut and bolt? So, what one would end up with is two very small holes in the rub strip. Remove the wiring harness A from the connector on the headlight B. It has semi barbed tabs that snap into holes in the plastic bumper cover. To change the bulb you pull the entire socket and bulb straight back out of the marker.
That way, all you would have to do is open the hood, remove the grille, slide the pins into their sockets, and tighten the bolts. You can't mount them on angled part of the bumper cover, just above the rubstrip. Remove the five T30 screws in the grill area Move to the wheel well and remove the three lower T25 Torx screws connecting the wheel well liner to the bumper cover. Quote: The theft proofing benefits would be nice too, as one would have to undo the hood or smash out the grille to get to the bracket bolt. With the Golf, the grill is a detachable piece: a grill mount will vibrate annoyingly, and you need to remove it for many maintenance procedures. Turn the wheels all the way to the right, and remove the 4 screws shown from the fender liner. They have two tabs that hold them in place, as seen below.
One problem with all of the above is that the Golf grill is sloped so much that with you might wind up with the lamps projecting forward of the bumper face. Take your time and everything will go to plan. What are the remaining options? The bumper is now free of the car. The Autoglass technician removed the wiper motor and arm complete prior to fitting the screen stating that it is virtually impossible to remove the arm without breaking it. The bumper is now free of the car. Hopefully this link will work, but an example of a steady-bracket should be found here: Basically, one would drill a small hole at the rim of the lamp, and use it to bolt the steady-bracket; the steady-bracket isn't intended to bear any weight, but it simply stops the annoying flexing and vibrating that occurs as you drive. Make sure that the cover on the back of the housing is sealed back up before installing the headlight again.
Same as above, other side. Only remove the circled one. I got the ff1000's at a really good price. I need to think some more and take apart the bumper to see what I could tie too. Looks like the cap on the rear of the light had gone missing at some point so the lamp is full of dirt.
All best, Ceilidh Hi Jester, Sounds like a clever plan! Then pull lightly on the spots marked 2 and they will pop out. Anyone seen anything like this or am I Mr. The speakers are mounted on a plastic tube-type extension which fixes to the inner door skin. Repalace the reserviour cap and pump the brake pedal slowly until the pads reset onto the disc. The front end looks much cleaner now with the silver bulbs, and all the covers are now clipped on properly. If fabrication doesn't kill the whole idea for you, it looks judging from my own car that a bracket can be fashioned that sits behind the grill, using the front bumper Torx bolts as attachment points i. I did see the other thread, but was hoping for something closer to the rub strip, but still above the bumper.
It's not originally a bolt,it's the cunningly designed spring clip as shown at the top,it's impossible to describe in two dimensions how to get it off,two small flat bladed screwdrivers and a little bit of common sense should do it. This is a great howto, thanks Chris. With the marker out you can see the spring clip mechanism that holds the marker in place along with the wiring and connection. If they are non removeable, then I don't like the way that thing looks for my daily driver at all. I had enough trouble with the lights off the car! Yes, exactly the same with me, saves bothering with that little clip, which is bound to fly off at 100 mph! I want to mount them on the downslope toward the rub strip, but above it just a bit.
Remove also those 2 screws from inside grille 5. Took me about an hour and a half for the whole job from start to finish, but I really took my time over it. If so you must reset your password using the process. No alignment needed after the initial setup. Unfortunatel y with a mk4, there is a large overhang on the rear bumper, and it isn't really well suited for a towbar, so there might not be many options our there.